Travel Series: Episode 1

Once Upon A Time: I Visited Kashmir

Photo by Echo Grid on Unsplash

Ever wondered what’s the No. 1 reason people travel? What excites them, motivates them, encourages them to take the initiative to step out? Yeah! You guessed it right, the ultimate motive is to escape the hustle and bustle of daily routine life and get closer to nature for it calms and soothes and provides comfort to the lingering soul. Once the decision is made to visit a place, then the next big question is “Where to go?” Now, it can really be an excruciating experience if you are naive to traveling and lack the necessary knowledge about places to visit for each place has a particular specialty than the other. Each place is unique in its own way and one has to explore the uniqueness by visiting it and creating memories. After the execution of these two steps, one can embark upon the travel journey.

Back in 2019, at the early beginning of summer, I decided to venture for traveling to Kashmir. Having no previous history of visiting rendered me clueless in this regard. Before I could jump in to putting my plan into action, I decided to undertake some research to find out the renowned spots of Kashmir. Internet came handy and helped me to figure out some spots such as Kel, Arang Kel and Taobat. I jotted them down and made up my mind to explore them on my own this summer.

Photo by Dariusz Sankowski on Unsplash

Being a solo traveler, budget held utmost importance for it was the backbone of my traveling. I had to be cautious not to overspend beyond my allocated budget. That’s why I opted for local transport for I knew it would be pocket-friendly and feasible.

By the time I set out for traveling, it was Monday evening but prior to it, I had booked my seat on call and when I reached Pirwadai Bus Stop by 07:30, it was time to depart.

I was seated at the front seat of the coaster.  Passengers were late and coaster finally left for Kashmir at 08:00 pm.

Overwhelmed by excitement, I couldn’t stop day-dreaming about Kashmir. Deep inside, I knew I would fall in love with nature. Meanwhile, the coaster passed through glittery mountains of Murree and the night-view stunned and allured me. For a moment, I was so lost in the beauty of of glowing mountains that I had completely forgotten where I was heading to. In fact, I got carried away by the bewitching night-view of Murree.

Murree ---Photo by Atif Manzoor on Flickr

Next to Murree, the coaster found its way on the roads of Muzaffarabad. Mesmerizing shimmer on mountains was more than I could take in a single night. I imagined as if the mountains were covered with tiny light bulbs. As I was lost in these thoughts, all of a sudden the coaster had to halt. It was 3:00am in the morning and it stopped at Ath-Maqam. Driver and some of the passengers got down the coaster. I also stepped down for I got to know it was the 2 hour break so that driver could rest his nerves and drowsy eyes too.

Muzaffarabad ---Photo by Mazhar Salam on Flickr

Being curious by nature, I began to walk on the road and reached bridge. I could hear the forceful flow of River Neelum beneath the bridge. It was altogether joyful and horrifying for such force could tear apart anything that comes along and joyous for its music was soothing to the mind and heart. I listened to such soulful serene music of River Neelum and after spending a while, I came back and headed in opposite direction to explore more. There was only one hotel open at that odd hour and only tea and snacks were available. But it was not a family hotel, so I bought some snacks and got back in coaster before it was time to leave.

At 5 am in the morning, the driver came back and so did the passengers and then the travel began. As the sun was coming up, then I could see the silhouettes of the mountains and I was awe-struck as I had never ever seen such colossal mountains in my life before. It seemed to be the journey worth my time and energy, for it was the gut-feeling.

Little cascades here and there on the road and soon we reached Keran, a small village, tall trees covering the mountain along side River Neelum. Indian side could be seen as the river was the only separating line between Pakistan and India. On the way from Keran onwards, a number of hotels and resorts for tourists lined up and yes, check points were to ensure the identity of tourists at Keran.

Keran ---Photo by Hamad Khawaja on Flickr

Ahead of Keran, we reached Kel, the most stunning view of all I must say. It was like a magical place surrounded by colossal mountains. As Aurang Kel was part of my plan, so I stepped down the coater at Kel and had breakfast at one of the local hotels. I asked a couple of people how to reach Arang Kel and they guided me so well for Kashmiris possess the rare quality of being one of the most cooperative hosts.

Kel ---Photo by Bilal Ahsan Zubairy on Flickr

As per the guidance, the easiest way to reach Arang Kel was to hop in chair lift. Fear crept in the moment I saw the chair lift or the cable car as the vast expanse of river below it was the scariest part. Since childhood, the idea of chair lift dreads me for some subconscious fear of it. Anyways, adventure knows no fears. With thumping heart and shivering body, I hopped in the chair lift. Everyone was excited except me and they not only filmed it and captured these sensational moments with camera and cellphones but also the excitement aura was evident.

Finally the chair lift crossed the river and reached Arang Kel. Well, I thought I had reached but then came to know the party was just to begin. Another adventure awaits ahead. Tourists coming back told me that hiking was far from adventure, it was a venture full of steep turns. Discouraged at this point in time, I couldn’t go back for I had come this far. Words can sometimes drain your energy and rob you of happiness that you are entitled to experience and it had the same effect on me for I found it difficult to hike to Arang Kel. It took me almost an hour or so before I made it to Arang Kel with a sigh of relief. Active hikers had accomplished it within 45 minutes.

Let me describe Arang Kel, for it was a lush-green meadow with mountains all around. Different hotels for tourist stays attracted my attention as I was too tired to roam about. I checked in one of the hotels and had a catnap after travel exhaustion. Before the evening could set in, I stepped out to see the beauty for which I had come that far. There were some streams of water and grass. A walk in the meadow refreshed my mind and soul. As night set in, there was bon fire and almost everyone enjoyed it and sang their hearts out. I also had dinner outside and then went to sleep late at night at my room.

Arang Kel ---Photo by Naeem Ghauri on Flickr

Next morning, waking up at 9, I realized that I had to hurry for my next destination and it was none other than Taobat. After check out, I hiked down Arang Kel and I was all in tears for this strenuous hike. Another ordeal awaited ahead in the form of cable car as it was supposed to take tourists back to Kel. This time, hopping in wasn’t less of scariest but yeah, it seemed better than the last day’s experience of cable car.

Back at Kel, locals told me that route to Taobat was mesmerizing but only Jeeps could take me there. Other tourists also intended to visit Taobat. So 6 of them and I, hopped in a jeep. At 11, the jeep was on the way to Taobat. Driver told me that we were only heading towards Taobat 1 and no tourists allowed at Taobat 2 for it was nearest to Line of Control.

Way to Taobat ---Photo by Mansoor Khan on Flickr

Locals were right about route to Taobat for it was a fairy-tale. The road offered scenic views of colossal mountains of Neelum Valley with the rushing river alongside. The view was breath-taking and for the first time, I had fallen in love, I knew it would happen and it had happened with the way to Taobat. Trees, mountains and rivers, a blend of three with a cloudy overcast was making me spell-bound. I was lost in the beauty and I requested jeep driver a number of times to halt so that I could absorb the eye-captivating beauty. Many a times, cascades were part of the path and jeep stopped so that we could have refill our bottles and refresh ourselves.

Way to Taobat ---Photo by Mohammad Imran on Flickr

We passed through different villages and finally reached Taobat. Best was yet to come. At Ath-Maqam, I had seen River Neelum flowing with restless demeanour and same was true in Taobat. I recalled the memory but here, it was too close and I walked on the wooden bridge and felt the rushing River Neelum for its violent flow. Having roamed about, and having my meal, by 4, we headed back to Kel.

Taobat ---Photo by Syed Muzammil Ali on Flickr

Truth be told, it wasn’t Taobat that I really fell for but the way to Taobat fascinated me. On the way back, I felt hypnotized again and was living the fairy-tale dream for I was the little fairy and it was my fairy-land. It was too good to be true, I never imagined that such a place existed on the face of the earth and especially, in my homeland Pakistan. As the time passed and jeep approached Kel, sadness overwhelmed me. I never wanted to leave that fairy-land. My heart began to ache in the love for Taobat. After reaching Kel, I had dinner and in the next morning, I boarded the local coaster to Muzaffarabad and then the next coaster from Muzaffarabad to Rawalpindi.

Photo by Jason Blackeye on Unsplash

Even after reaching Rawalpindi, I felt lost for I had found my dreamland, my destiny and my paradise on earth. I knew I will always be locked in its memories for the rest of my life and would long to visit again. That dream has never been realized so far. It’s been two years now since I visited Taobat but my heart yearns for it. I sum it up like this: Taobat is a fairy-land for it bewitches you, entices you and you become trapped. Love for Taobat is intoxicating and escape seems impossible, at least, for me.